Quartzsite and BLM Lands

Sunday, February 17, 2008 -- Quartzsite, AZ

Yesterday, Saturday, we woke to clearing skies at the Pinal County Fairgrounds in Casa Grande. The rain had stopped but the parking area was still muddy. Both Dar and I are getting the travel day routine down... each of us goes about our chores and we're ready to leave after an hour or so. Often, if possible, we hook up toady right where we're parked, before even starting the bus. But since it was so muddy and we needed to visit the dump station on the way out first, it'd be cleaner and easier to hook up in a big asphalt parking lot near the entrance to the fairgrounds. All chores were done, tire pressure adjusted, toady hooked up, and we were on the road by 10am.

Our objective was Quartzsite. This little town near the western border of Arizona has a population of about 3,000 year'round souls according to the US Census. Around Quartzsite are many thousands of acres of land managed by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) which permits something that could be called "free-range camping" -- just drive your ol' RV onto these desert lands, find a place to park, drop anchor, and set-up housekeeping. There are no hook-ups of course, you've got to bring your own water and power, and you've got to take everything you brought in back out when you go. But the price is reasonable: the short-term (up to 14 days) areas are free. The larger long-term areas do have some amenities (central dump station, access to water, dumpsters for trash) and there's a nominal fee to offset those costs.

Quartzsite sits in a valley with mountains to the east and the west. From some higher vantage points, as you gaze down into the valley you can see RV's scattered about in every direction. It's an amazing site.

There are so many RV'ers here that I'm sure the population of the Quartzsite area explodes by ten or twenty thousand people or more during much of the winter. The high-point of the season is the "Big Tent" sports, vacation and RV show in late January. But even now, everywhere you turn there are people selling stuff to RV'ers. Most of the town reminds me of a giant flee market. If a big wind came up I think the town itself could be blown into the desert. Few things look permanent.

So Dar and I found a level spot in one of the short-term areas. The fresh water tank was nearly full, diesel tank full, LP tank full, and holding tanks empty, so we should be able to easily get through the 6 or 7 nights we plan to be here. We're facing east, for full morning sun to help warm the camper, and the nearest neighbor is maybe a hundred yards away. There's plenty of room, especially now that the season is starting to wind down. There are no street or security lights so it can be plenty dark. This week however, with clear skies, the moon is lighting up the desert.

Saturday night Dar wanted a campfire. It's illegal to cut firewood on BLM lands, and there's not much more than scrub brush anyway. So if you want a fire you've got to buy wood. In town there are hundreds of vendors selling all kinds of knick-knacks and cheap plastic junk from China, but it was a bit of a challenge to find someone selling firewood. Even after talking with locals it took some lookin' to find this guy selling "the finest California pine firewood". At $6.50 per small bag, the fire was going to be a short one.

It was dark and the fire was dying later that night when a neighbor came over and invited us over to their fire. Another neighbor of theirs, a country musician from Nashville, had come over with his guitar. This little group of about 10 people listened, sang, told jokes, and had a great time until the desert chill overcame the desire to continue. This experience, and dozens more we've had along the way, demonstrates the overt friendliness of people living this lifestyle. It's far easier to meet people and form impromptu, spontaneous gatherings than in our previous "fixed" lifestyle.

We're comfortable here and are planning to stay until we head across the border into that foreign land called California. We've got to eat all our fruit before going or it'll be confiscated at the border to feed the families of needy agricultural inspectors and border guards.

T